Sunday 13 July 2014

Cinque Terre

After a three-an-a-half-hour ride on the Treno Regionale, that included a change-over in Parma, we finally arrived in Monterosso. Admittedly, the Regionale experience is quite different from the high speed trains, Le Frecce, Trenitalia (Le Frecce translates as The Arrows. ) Since train travel has been a big part of our experience on this trip, it bears elaborating somewhat on this aspect of our travels.  We have encountered two types of speed trains, Frecciarossa and Frecciargento, (Red Arrow and Silver Arrow) with the "rossa" offering slightly newer amenities. It is mandatory to reserve a seat costing 10,00 Euros per person on any of the high speed trains, even if you have a Eurail Pass, but it's worth it.  Apparently, there is a Frecciabianca as well; we haven't seen it. Le Frecce trains travel only to the larger cities and generally move North/South. The Regional trains travel east/west as well and make many more stops, hitting the smaller and more rural towns. Seating is open and for Eurail pass holders, free, which is nice. Comfort is no where near what it is on the high speed trains.  That said, they are still efficient and effective modes of transportation to move large numbers of people to a variety of locations.

As with most of our arrivals to new places, our first encounter with Monterosso was confusing.  What had been a relatively quiet train ride became more and more crowded and chaotic as we approached the Cinque Terre towns, and the Monterosso stop was teaming with people getting off and on the train, some arriving for the first time, others using the train as a mode of transportation to visit one of the remaining four towns, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.

As part of our package, B&B Il Parco had a taxi waiting for us, a tremendous relief. A short ride to the hotel and we knew we had a winner.  Thanks, Les for helping us locate this fantastic spot. They even have a decent breakfast that includes scrambled eggs that Charles loves :) The peace and quiet comes at a bit of a price. The descent to the town centre where the action is, i.e. restaurants, beach, stores, espresso and gelato bars, etc. requires about a 15 minute walk to the shortcut ...a set of stairs, we counted 135, so not bad compared to the Praiano stairs experience.  The walk back is more rigorous, since the climb does't end with the stairs. The road is uphill all the way, a good workout after a meal or snack of gelato which is to die for anywhere in Italy. I've developed a fondness for nocciola and chocolate, yum! We've noted that somehow all this exercise doesn't seem to translate into weight management.  We can both feel out waists expanding by the day.  Home time will also be diet time...big time!


B&B Il Parco has great views and beautifully manicured gardens with quiet spaces to sit and gather your thoughts
Having already experienced incredible meals in Bologna, it was an unexpected surprise to find equally amazing food at Miky's in Monterosso.

Tuna steak with capers and sun dried tomato 

Sea bass with really good potatoes

And le piece de resistance, tiramisu ...delicious!
The hiking trail from Monterosso to Vernazza was much safer yet, in some ways more strenuous than the Path of the Gods along the Amalfi Coast, beautiful in it's own way, but very different.  We found it hard to put our finger on just what the difference was.  The best we could come up with is that the vistas along the Amalfi coast were somehow more majestic.  Cinque Terre, however is very pretty and extremely photogenic.

Vernazza seen from the hiking trail

Beautiful vistas from the hiking path

Vernazza from a closer perspective along the trail

Today, we took the boat ride along the coast and had the opportunity to see each of the towns from the water, all stunningly beautiful from afar. The only town we actually explored was Vernazza.  By the time we got to Riomaggiore, we were both tired and starting to get a little seasick from the rocking of the boat so we decided to pack it in and head back for an afternoon of sunning and swimming at the beach. By the way, 10,00 Euros each for an umbrella and two chairs. They get you coming and going in these tourist areas!

We learned that Vernazza and Monterosso were the hardest hit during the awful mud slide that happened in October of 2011.  Once again we are amazed at the resilience of Italian villagers.  Walking through the towns today, one would never believe that three years ago the main roads were six feet deep in mud! Mirella, the proprietress of B&B Il Parco, explained that the towns folk, young and old, of Monterosso and Vernazza worked night and day to get things back in shape for the following tourist season and, for the most part, they succeeded.  She mentioned that some relief also came from other parts of Italy and Europe as well, which was nice to hear.

Street in Vernazza that was buried in mud after the mud slide of October, 2011

Loved this shot of the water Charles took as we were leaving the Vernazza harbour

And finally, I just had to include this photo of an amazing seafood pasta dish I had at La Tortuga Ristorante. As we sat eating, I watched a huge Mediterranean storm from a window right in front of me.  It was awesome!  Come to think of it, that's probably why the boat was rocking so much...the waves were higher than usual, probably due to the storm the night before.

Yummy seafood pasta at La Tortuga

Window at La Tortuga.  The storm was still brewing at this point, but nature put on quite a show!
Well, tomorrow it's back to Bologna for a few days.  We'll probably hit Florence one more time and not sure what else.  Really looking forward to Greve in Chianti, Tuscany coming up at the end of the week.


12 comments:

  1. These photos are breathtaking. Both of the views and of the food. It's amazing that you guys have had a chance to experience so much on your trip. Good for you for learning the trains and navigating all around. I think you'll find Tuscany much quieter and the slow pace will be an enjoyable way to end your vacation. You still have over a week so plenty of time left!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, I'm REALLY looking forward to a slower pace. It's been invigorating, though and we did get a chance for some down time on the beach at Monterosso :) I hope the weather clears up for Thursday. It's been a tad "iffy" the last few days.

      Delete
  2. Oh yeah! We were talking to some friends who are planning a trip to Italy next month and she was all excited to go to bologna cause she said they have one of the worlds oldest universities there and you can go and see where they used to do dissections and the equipment is very old an archaic. Anyway, she's doing her PhD in science so maybe a little exciting for her but I thought it sounded kinda interesting. Maybe if you are looking for something to do one day..

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. There is lots to see in Bologna. It's not on Rick Steves' "to do" list so not a tourist trap. They'll enjoy it, I think. It has an interesting history, St. Petronius Church is a match for much of what we've seen in Venice or Florence, and there's a really neat little church called Santa Maria della Vita that has some incredible art. I'll do a quick post of it so you can show her.

      Delete
  3. The food photos are especially enticing! I do see a retirement career as a food pornographer for you and Charles. Perhaps you can do this as a team, providing a male and female perspective - charles with his soft, scrambled eggs and you with your seafood pasta. The tiramisu i would sell my mother for.

    ReplyDelete
  4. It would be amazing to see a storm from the safety of a good restaurant or B&B. You've really seen so many different parts of Italy on this trip. Your Amalfi photos have really captured my imagination and it's def high on my list. Vernazza is gorgeous in the photo. It's hard to believe you've been gone for over two weeks! Give up worries about weight loss on this trip - that's what August is for! Continue to enjoy.

    ReplyDelete
  5. The window shot above is gorgeous - great framing and the colour of the sky is lovely

    ReplyDelete
  6. Elaina and Linda, you guys are the best; your comments are wonderfully appreciated, and makes this experience doubly fun. I've laughed out loud on occasion. Charles.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Sure beats the chicken souvlaki plate from the food court I'm having right now!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Lol! Glad to hear you had great B-day dinner at the Keg. That comes close :)

      Delete
  8. Love your picture of Vernazza. I think ours is almost the same shot. I am enjoying your posts. I had some quiet time yesterday and reread from the beginning. Wonderful. I too have been laughing at Elaina and Linda's comments. Looking forward to seeing and hearing more about it when you are home. Chuck has that camera down pat. Trying to enjoy some quiet time in Chianti.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Les! Glad to hear you are checking in. Hard to believe how close home time is, although we did a heck of a lot in a week and a half at the onset, so it ain't over yet. Really looking forward to some chill time in Chianti. Booked a cooking class. Can't wait. Also looking forward to seeing everyone when we get back :)

      Delete